For the love of ginger

I have been on a ginger kick for the past two years. Probably spurred by Janos teaching me how to peel ginger root with a spoon (easier than a veggie peeler and it saves the 'flesh' while ripping the papery skin right off). Then Kyle's pitcher of Moscow Mules didn't help matters. Vodka, lime juice and a good strong ginger ale. So refreshing, especially on a hot summer night. It's a perfect party drink. However, the trouble is most of the "good" ginger ales tend to be expensive (i.e. $2.99 for a 4-pack at trader joes).... making it cost prohibitive to serve them at a party.

Which is why making your own 'good' ginger ale is so cool. The fact that it's super easy makes it all the better.

After you peeled your ginger, grate it (or throw a whole bunch of peeled ginger roots in a food processor). You'll end up with a mound of fibrous juicy mess. Just pick up the big mound of pulp and use your hands to squeeze the 'ginger juice' out into a glass. You'll be left with a clump of dry fiber that you can ditch and a beautiful glass of translucent ginger juice. You can further strain it if it still has a bit of fiber in it. Then just add it to some store-bought ginger ale (just keep tasting it until it has the right amount of bite). Easy as pie and for a fraction of the cost.

If you're not quite craving Moscow Mules, pour the ginger juice into a jar and mix it with just a bit of vodka before you throw it in the freezer. The alcohol keeps the juice from freezing so you can spoon it directly into your dish/recipe without thawing the whole thing. What a snap to get fresh tastes without going throw the work of grating ginger every time.

Anyway, I bring this up because the Oregonian just put out an article on how to make your own ginger ale using a recipe from a local restaurant that serves great drinks. It's pretty good, especially since they use vanilla, which I never would have expected. What a fun twist. As a review, I'd say more ginger and use simple syrup rather than turbinado. But otherwise, definitely a keeper. The story is below for people who hate links. There's also a recipe for Marionberry lemonade. Happy summer.

Choose a cooler that's alcohol-free
Tuesday, July 05, 2005
CHRISTINA MELANDER
The Oregonian
Graduations. Long weekends. Weddings. Sunny weather. Summer gives us plenty to celebrate, prompting as many last-minute barbecues as it does events that involve embarrassing toasts. And wherever there's a gathering, there is food -- and drink.

All that partying can lead to a lot of wasted mornings and puffy eyes, not to mention unfortunate renditions of "Born in the U.S.A." on the karaoke mike. Extend a favor to friends who are teetotalers, guests who tend to hit it a little too hard and yourself by serving nonalcoholic coolers that are just as luscious as Uncle Ted's mint juleps.

For inspiration, we combed restaurants for the iciest sippers in town, cooling off with knockouts such as Marionberry Lemonade and handmade ginger ale -- drinks that are easily made at home with the accompanying recipes.

Bartenders put the squeeze
on lemons and limes Sticky with sugar and prickly tart, fresh-squeezed lemonade is delicious on its own, not least because of its ability to kick up all kinds of summer memories. But this quintessential cooler is getting better all the time, thanks to the meddling of restive chefs and mixologists.

At Meriwether's in Northwest Portland, bartenders smash Marionberries with sugar to form a viscous puree that's strained over lemonade. Served unstirred, the drink is a tie-dye swirl of chiffon yellow and beet red, the puree wonderfully piquant and textured with tiny berry seeds. Now that basil is in season, the restaurant has added basil lemonade, extracting the herb's effervescence by putting some muscle into muddling. Director of operations Sissy Lozze recommends using a wooden muddler, an inexpensive cousin of the pestle, available at kitchen-supply stores. "Pack the basil, lemon and sugar with ice in the bottom of a glass," she advises. "Once you start muddling, the ice kind of tears the basil leaves, releasing its flavor and creating small, crunchy bits of ice that taste of basil."

Less common and more tart is limeade. Imagine you're standing in a L'Occitane store or in the middle of a lavender field in full bloom and you'll get a pretty good idea of the powerfully aromatic lavender limeade recently introduced at downtown lunch emporium Cafe Voila. The lavender essence counters the acidic lime with its floral sweetness in this unusual blush pink drink.

Tropical iced tea
takes Tetley's to task Iced tea, prepared to varying degrees of sweetness, is another beverage inexorably linked to lazy days around a picnic table. One of the most alluring versions can be found at Northeast Portland's Pambiche, which encourages idle daydreaming during its afternoon happy hour. Commonly called agua de Jamaica in Mexico, Pambiche's tropical iced tea derives its grape hue, flowery taste and dry astringency from dried hibiscus (Jamaica) flowers. Beyond that, the black tea is sweetened only with the squeeze of an orange, though it carries pineapple notes.

Beloved for its expert cocktails, Saucebox, in downtown, offers a surprisingly long list of nonalcoholic coolers. Its Green Tea Soda delivers the syrupy sugar jolt of cream soda -- and the antioxidants of green tea. It appeals to both adult and juvenile palates, and it's a cinch to make at home (see accompanying recipe).

Bitters make it better
with a medicinal bite If you've relegated bitters to the exclusive realm of cocktails, it's time to liberate your creativity. The potent herbal concoction balances sweet libations of all kinds with a welcome medicinal bite. Colosso, in Northeast Portland, uses it to great effect in its sprightly homemade ginger ale, a blend of grated fresh ginger, turbinado sugar, bitters, lemon and soda water. Owner Julie Colosso prefers Peychaud's bitters for its smoothness and says that turbinado (raw) sugar contributes an appealing caramel color. "We call it Pete's Ginger Ale because we created it for Dandy Warhols guitarist Pete Holmstrom, who doesn't drink alcohol," Colosso says, noting that it also can be served warm as a hot toddy during winter (see accompanying recipe).

And, finally, the inventor's award goes to Southeast Portland breakfast hub Genie's Cafe for a one-of-a-kind brew dubbed Horse Tail Falls. Remember that moniker because you may need to ask for it by name: Genie's listed the delicious amber beverage on its now-defunct dinner menu, but the staff is happy to whip one up any time of day. (Manager Marcus Hoover says the Horse Tail may soon reappear on a revised menu.) Again, bitters bring spark to the drink, a thirst-quenching mix of apple juice, ginger ale and Earl Grey tea poured over ice. Sound like an odd partner for a chicken sausage scramble or toasted hazelnut pancakes? Trust us, plain old orange juice has got nothing on this show pony.

Christina Melander is a Portland freelance writer.

Recipes from the article:

Green Tea Soda

Makes 1 tall drink

Ice
11/2 ounces green tea syrup (3 tablespoons; recipe follows)
1 cup club soda

Fill glass with ice. Add syrup, top with club soda and stir. To make syrup: Steep 2 bags of green tea in 1 cup of boiling water for 5 minutes. Discard bags and add 1 cup granulated sugar. Stir until dissolved. Let cool and refrigerate for up to 1 week.

-- From Saucebox, Portland

Pete's Ginger Ale

Makes 1 pint

Grated zest and juice from 1/4 to 1/2 a lemon
1 to 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
3 dashes bitters (preferably Peychaud's)
1/8 teaspoons vanilla
Ice
1 teaspoon turbinado sugar (see note)
12 ounces club soda (11/2 cups)

Add zest and lemon juice to a pint glass; add ginger to taste. Mix in bitters and vanilla; fill glass with ice. In a separate container, dissolve sugar into club soda. Once dissolved, pour over other ingredients and stir well. Note: Turbinado sugar, or raw cane sugar, is available at most grocery stores. Sprite or 7 Up can be substituted for the club soda-sugar mixture but results in a sweeter beverage.

-- From Colosso, Portland

Marionberry Lemonade

Makes 5 to 6 servings Marionberry puree:

4 ounces fresh or frozen Marionberries (3/4 cup)
2 tablespoons superfine sugar or Baker's Sugar, plus more to taste
2 tablespoons water
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
Lemonade:
3/4 cup superfine sugar or Baker's Sugar
1 cup hot water
1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 5 to 6 lemons)
5 cups cold water

To make puree: Place Marionberries, sugar, water and lemon juice in a blender and puree until smooth. Since berries vary in sweetness, taste before serving and add sugar as desired. To make lemonade: Pour sugar into a 2-quart pitcher. Add hot water and stir vigorously to dissolve. Add fresh lemon juice and cold water. Stir well and refrigerate.

To serve, fill a 20-ounce glass with ice and fill with 10 ounces lemonade (about 11/4 cups), reserving room to top with 3 tablespoons Marionberry puree. Basil variation: Place 2 to 4 basil leaves, 2 small slices of fresh lemon and 1 sugar cube in a 20-ounce glass and fill to half with crushed ice. Muddle until basil leaves are broken and well-mixed. Pour 10 ounces lemonade (about 11/4 cups) over the mixture. Cover with another glass and shake to combine. Pour out into ice-filled glass and garnish with lemon wedge or fresh basil sprig.

-- From Meriwether's, Portland